Check out the following link, to Water For People's "Reflections from World Water Week"... specifically "harnessing the private sector to provide sanitation services to the poor" - something that the Vacutug would definitely encourage!
http://www.waterforpeople.org/site/News2?id=5747
Friday, September 11, 2009
Friday, September 4, 2009
$5,100 and other, bigger numbers
O God, you are my God,
earnestly I seek you;
my soul thirsts for you,
my body longs for you,
in a dry and weary land
where there is no water.
Psalm 63:1
I recently received some e-mails from my friend Roy, a Malawian and the Executive Director of Hygiene Village Project, which partners with Water For People on sanitation and hygiene projects in and around Blantyre, Malawi. I reference Roy in my Malawi Trip Journal... he is on the right in the picture below.
Roy's e-mail:
Mark, my request is this: can you support us or can you find any well-wisher (an individual or organization) who can support us by funding for the procurement of a Vacutug. A Vacutug is a mini-machine that is used to empty the sludge from household latrines at low cost. The Vacutug can remove 500 litres of waste from a household in one trip. With agitation the Vacutug can pump the hard compacted waste found in older pit latrines. The provision of the machine will encourage and increase the demand for the latrines in the community. The machine shall also act as an income generation for Hygiene Village Project
The Vacutug is a pit-latrine exhauster designed to provide a simple and inexpensive method for emptying pit-latrines in areas where access by conventional exhausters is impossible, for instance, because of narrow roads. It is a simple machine, composed of a vacuum tank and a pump/tug assembly. The design specification of the Vacutug is based on the hypothesis that, typically, an individual will produce between 40-50 litres of sludge per annum. Thus where dry pits are used with good ground conditions, where there is no ingress of ground water, a 500 litre tank load should provide a latrine service for a family of 10 people for one year.
The tug assembly comprises a small frame-mounted 5.9 kW petrol engine. It is pedestrian controlled and in traction mode, the engine can propel the vehicle at speeds of up to 5kph. It consists of a 500 litre load capacity, a 4 meter long by 3 inch diameter PVC hose and when connected to the vacuum pump which has a 1,700 litres a minute air flow. The pump can be reversed to pressurize the tank to assist the discharge into a transfer tank.
For the Vacutug, we can procure it in Kenya (UN-HABITAT) at a capital cost of $5,100 and we estimate that the total cost which include freight charges, the mounting motorcycle, training, basic maintenance and duty is $17,857.
God should bless the whole process of raising the funds for the procurement.
earnestly I seek you;
my soul thirsts for you,
my body longs for you,
in a dry and weary land
where there is no water.
Psalm 63:1
I recently received some e-mails from my friend Roy, a Malawian and the Executive Director of Hygiene Village Project, which partners with Water For People on sanitation and hygiene projects in and around Blantyre, Malawi. I reference Roy in my Malawi Trip Journal... he is on the right in the picture below.
Well, as Roy expresses in the e-mail text, below, a Vacutug would be very beneficial in the areas where Hygiene Village Project is at work. I agree. I see this - specifically, investment in sanitation - as an area where there is a lot of need, but not much focus. You might know that nearly 1 billion people in the world do not have access to safe drinking water. That's a big number - and a big problem. But did you know that access to adequate sanitation facilities is an even bigger problem? Nearly 2.5 billion people in the world do not have adequate sanitation facilities… and overall, nearly 6,000 people die every day from water-related illness. Lack of adequate sanitation plays a huge role in that - what good is clean water if you can't prevent it from becoming polluted? Education about sanitation and construction of latrines and handwashing stations are an important part of the solution... and ongoing training and maintenance is vital.
Roy's e-mail:
We at Hygiene Village Project have been very busy trying to implement a sanitation marketing project. The project has been very tough with a lot of challenges and lessons learnt being the first of its kind in Malawi. However, we have succeeded, as many households have started demanding for the latrines in peri-urban areas.
One of the challenges in our work on the sanitation projects is the sustainability of the programme as more pit latrines are being constructed. Within 3-5 years the latrines shall be filled up. It is our wish that we also introduce the pit emptying technology where the community can be able to empty their latrines at lower costs.
Mark, my request is this: can you support us or can you find any well-wisher (an individual or organization) who can support us by funding for the procurement of a Vacutug. A Vacutug is a mini-machine that is used to empty the sludge from household latrines at low cost. The Vacutug can remove 500 litres of waste from a household in one trip. With agitation the Vacutug can pump the hard compacted waste found in older pit latrines. The provision of the machine will encourage and increase the demand for the latrines in the community. The machine shall also act as an income generation for Hygiene Village Project
The Vacutug is a pit-latrine exhauster designed to provide a simple and inexpensive method for emptying pit-latrines in areas where access by conventional exhausters is impossible, for instance, because of narrow roads. It is a simple machine, composed of a vacuum tank and a pump/tug assembly. The design specification of the Vacutug is based on the hypothesis that, typically, an individual will produce between 40-50 litres of sludge per annum. Thus where dry pits are used with good ground conditions, where there is no ingress of ground water, a 500 litre tank load should provide a latrine service for a family of 10 people for one year.
The tug assembly comprises a small frame-mounted 5.9 kW petrol engine. It is pedestrian controlled and in traction mode, the engine can propel the vehicle at speeds of up to 5kph. It consists of a 500 litre load capacity, a 4 meter long by 3 inch diameter PVC hose and when connected to the vacuum pump which has a 1,700 litres a minute air flow. The pump can be reversed to pressurize the tank to assist the discharge into a transfer tank.
For the Vacutug, we can procure it in Kenya (UN-HABITAT) at a capital cost of $5,100 and we estimate that the total cost which include freight charges, the mounting motorcycle, training, basic maintenance and duty is $17,857.
God should bless the whole process of raising the funds for the procurement.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
What's a Vacutug?
What better way to start "officially" blogging than by using a word very few people have ever heard of?
The article below is from the UN-HABITAT website (http://www.unhabitat.org/content.asp?cid=4958&catid=548&typeid=24&subMenuId=0). It pretty much speaks for itself... I think this device has the potential to make a dramatic impact on urban areas in the developing world...
Income generation through the provision of integrated sanitation systems for low-income urban communities.
Bringing relief to slums – a novel way to remove human waste safely and economically
The challenge
A lack of basic services is characteristic of low income settlements where the urban poor pay high prices for the little water and sanitation provision they receive. World leaders, major donor agencies, public and private organizations and the general public at large have committed themselves to redressing this situation under the Millennium Development Goals by targeting to halve those without access to adequate water and sanitation by the year 2015.
The problem of water and sanitation in cities is attributable both to the growth of the city populations, and to escalating poverty itself. According to the 2001 Global Report on Human settlements , over 1 billion people live without adequate shelter and access to basic services. An estimated 300 million people lack access to adequate sanitation. Their numbers come to double those without water supplies. The economic impact this has in terms of health and socio-economic capacity of individuals is huge.
Investing in sanitation infrastructure will go a long way to achieving these goals. But it has to go hand-in-hand with adequate human waste removal.
Background
On-site human waste disposal still remains the only option for the millions of poor living in informal settlements and unplanned areas. The conventional waterborne sewerage is hampered by a multitude of limitations in these areas and consequently simple and ventilated improved pit (VIP) latrines remain the common choice of sanitation facility. In these settlements, when the latrines become full the closing down and relocation of these latrines is often not possible because of the limitation of space and so they have to be emptied. Emptying of pit latrines is done either manually or mechanically.
After studying the situation in slums around the world, UN-HABITAT sought to devise a system that would replace manual emptying. It commissioned a mechanical system that would be capable of being manufactured locally using readily available components, that would be affordable, easily serviceable, able to operate in narrow passageways where other conventional exhauster vehicles cannot pass, and capable of sucking out dense waste sludge for transportation to a larger tanker vehicle. At the same time it was imperative that excrement be removed as safely as possible without posing further health hazards in slums.
Thus in 1995 Manus Coffey and Associates Ltd (MCA) and UN-HABITAT designed and built the first prototype in Ireland: the MK I UN-HABITAT Vacutug.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Malawi Trip Journal
This entry was originally composed as daily e-mail correspondence during my trip to Malawi, Africa with Water For People - World Water Corps (http://www.waterforpeople.org/site/PageServer?pagename=Get_World_Water_Corp), from October 16 to November 2, 2008.
Thursday, October 16 – Friday, October 17 – Travel from Sacramento, CA USA to Johannesburg, South Africa
We made it. The total travel time was 26.5 hours from takeoff in Sac to touchdown in Johannesburg. Whew! A rough landing in Dakar, then a ripping apart – I mean, inspection – of the seats by airport officials, and insecticide spraying throughout the cabin by the attendant… a malfunction in cargo delayed us there for 2.5 hours. Then, bad weather around Johannesburg made us circle for an hour or so, with lightning strikes in the distance and much turbulence. It was very, very good to be on solid ground. Then... got to the hotel, and the power was out! It just came back on a bit ago, and I am writing from an internet cafe in the hotel (Hotel Grand). I am rooming with Richard Murphy (from GSWC), and sat next to him on the plane, as well. The other 4 team members seem very nice. The guy I think I'll be teaming with on the evaluation trips in Malawi is named Joe, and he is a big Phillies fan, from Philadelpia. (We'll have to talk some American baseball, of course.) Right now, South African sports are on the TV in the Internet cafe - rugby, soccer, cricket.
Saturday, October 18 – Travel from Johannesburg to Blantyre, Malawi
We are here, at the Kabula Lodge. Today’s flight was much better than yesterdays… no problems. I did get shammed out of about $7 at the Johannesburg airport by a guy who pretended to be an airline employee, led us to a line and then asked for a tip for the whole group. Turns out it was the “first class” line, which we were not… so we had to go back to the longer line we had been in, anyway. And the guy was nowhere to be found. Oh, well… live and learn. I hope the money goes for a good purpose. I sat next to a woman from Malawi on this flight, and she was very knowledgeable about both Malawi and US politics. Interesting conversation. The weather here is HOT… even the Malawi natives that picked us up were noting the temperature. Saw a lot of people walking and riding bikes on the way from the airport to the hotel. Many small “businesses” along the roadside. Many coffin builders – seeing that made me sad. Also, a lot of trash, like in dry streambeds and drainages. But also women pumping water from some communal wells… which I’m sure we’ll see more of!
Afternoon rest, then dinner at Greens – a nice restaurant. The drivers, Ben and Frank, waited outside for the duration of our meal. The restaurant property had a wall and a gate; after dinner, I asked Frank the reason for all of the “compounds” (around hotels, restaurants, etc.) He stated that there are “professional thieves” that would otherwise harass the clients, steal from the owner, etc. Another reminder of the poverty in this country… some people feel that stealing is the only way to survive. I then asked about the police and judicial structure; Frank stated that there is a police department and there are courts, etc. and punishment for crime – but we have yet to see any sign of a law enforcement network. That would require infrastructure that Malawi may not have… and may not be able to have until the basic necessities – like clean water – are in place? (Clean water leads to more productive time, more education, better health, etc…. things that are necessary in order to build solid infrastructure!)
Reflecting on this made my mind wander back to what we had seen on the drive from the Blantyre airport to the Kabula Lodge. Many, many people walking and riding bicycles along the main street… many others sitting in the shade… many others selling wares in the open or from small shacks alongside the road – with names like “God is Good Grocery”, “Telephone Cooperative” (selling shared cell phone time), or “Coffin Showroom”. A mass of humanity with seemingly little purpose but to survive… all the while surrounded by the stigma of death. Some signs promoting HIV/AIDS awareness, others – like the Coffin makers – an all to real reminder of death’s presence here. Can water and sanitation be foundational for bringing the change that is needed in Malawi???
Sunday, October 19 – Tour and lunch with Marei’s friend Eddie (and his wife, Anna) Kaluwa
We all slept in today… we needed it! I awoke at 8:40am, then showered (low water pressure, but scalding water) and headed down for breakfast. I thought I was late, but it turns out that I was only the third person from our group to eat… and the hostess was gracious and prepared me a meal of two fried eggs, two pieces of toast, and a sausage… although she probably thought I was a lazy American!
After breakfast and a relaxing morning, Eddie came to pick us up. Marei had connected with him on her trip last year, as they are both members of the Lions Club International. He was very nice, welcoming and gracious. He had been to church already (we later found out that his wife had preached, on Paul and Silas freeing the slave girl from the demon possession that made her masters’ money) – he seems to be like an elder in his church.
He took us by the farm of Christopher, a gentle man who had a lush vegetable and flower garden and tree nursery near a small creek. He dams the creek in 5 locations, and there were still pools of water for him to pump from. He received his first pump from Eddie, who purchased it (petrol, 5kV?) in Johannesburg – but that pump got stolen. He was able to save enough to buy another pump, which keeps his business going even during the dry season… while others are only preparing their fields, waiting for the rains to come. Christopher was growing maize, strawberries, papayas, peanuts, and many other things – while we were there, he had helpers harvesting fruits and vegetables for a customer that was going to arrive at 2pm. He irrigates twice a week in the dry season, and once a week in the wet season, with the pump and a series of PVC pipes and hoses that he keeps on the tin roof of his house when not in use…
Next, we went by Eddie’s church, and saw the building the congregation built from bricks they made and fired themselves (to make the bricks, they build a brick “hut”, fill it with wet bricks, light a fire until it smokes, and then seal it for a week). The church has city water and power; Eddie’s house is nearby, and he was the first in the area to connect to power… after the transformer was placed, it then became available for others in the area to contact the power company to connect. The church is also building a small kitchen with $400 received from a group in Pittsburg – and they still have some of that money left!
We walked from the church to some fields, where one of the “elders” – Tom – has a plot of land with maize, tomatoes, peanuts, etc.? He was very proud of his plot of earth – it was a beautiful garden, all irrigated from shallow ditches leading back to a shallow well. A woman was drawing a large bucketful while we watched (and then carried all 50+ lbs of it on her head up the hill!). Amazing to have such a beautiful garden all irrigated basically by hand.
Then we went to Eddie’s house, met his wife Anna, and had a very enjoyable meal and a relaxing afternoon. Eddie runs a cargo business, and is obviously well-off. He has a large home, at least one servant, night-time guards, chickens (his daughter’s side-business), pigeons, his own well and water tank (for when the city water – run by the National Water Board – is unreliable), a garden, a Land Rover, satellite TV (his granddaughters were watching a Madonna video on VH1, and later we watched CNN coverage of U.S. politics!), etc. He buys tomatoes from Tom, though! He seems to be able to relate well to the rich and the poor… for the poor, he provides incentives, like “if they make the bricks, I will help bring in someone to make this shallow well a borehole well”. He seemed very knowledgeable on social and cultural issues, both Malawi’s and outside. He has been once to the U.S. – to Washington, D.C. and Pittsburg.
Eddie indicated that malaria is a bigger problem in Malawi than HIV/AIDS, because with AIDS, you can live for a while, but with malaria, you might die tomorrow. He also encouraged tree planting to go along with water and sanitation projects, as Malawi has been deforested for wood for fuel… maybe the WFP “Arbor Loo” is helping to address this. Anna talked further about malaria, stating that education was very important… mosquito nets are almost free, but some people use them to fence chickens, etc. So, medication like what Bono is discussing would need to be distributed down to the village level, and come with much culturally-sensitive education.
At the end of our visits, Eddie took us by his cargo company, developed from the ground up 10 years ago, after he was fired by an Indian cargo company…
Overall, a nice day, a good visit with Eddie and Anna, and a great introduction to some sights of Malawi.
Monday, October 20 – WFP training intro, visit to Makata School
Met up with Kate (WFP) and partner staff in the morning, then went to a school site in the afternoon to observe, interview and practice our evaluation skills as a group. The school has almost 6,000 students, but only 60 teachers! (And only 24 ventilated pit latrines for boys, 10 for girls, and 6 for staff… one urinal for boys and one for girls… three hand-washing stations… one Afridev pump.) They serve porridge each morning, “when it’s ready”, which interrupts morning lessons… but the teachers are grateful for the food for the students. One teacher confirmed my suspicions that it is hard to maintain a classroom of 100 students, much less provide individual instruction. 800 of the students are orphans.
Met a teacher, Victor Fundi, who worked on the hygiene project and was also trained to repair the pump. He has three children, but lost a fourth last year… for what reason, I could not ask. He has never been out of Malawi, but desperately wants to get to the U.S. He is also an artist, and brought some of his paintings to show us – beautiful artwork. At the time of our departure, he offered me one, and even when I stated that I couldn’t pay him, he insisted. I humbly accepted one of his paintings, of zebras… so generous… an amazing gift.
We spent some time in the village outside of the school, interviewing users of the well. We followed a teen-aged girl carrying water to the home of an elderly woman, who invited us into her home. She answered all of the questions with careful thought. On her walls were two decorations… one was a picture of an open Bible, and I could make out the word “Jesus” spelled “Yesu”. The other was in English, simply stating “God will save us from our problems”.
Today was emotionally full. I think that the entire team was humbled by what we saw today… poverty with hope, education against the odds, attempts – through water, hygiene and sanitation – to help people to survive… and maybe, with education, to succeed. A tension of hopelessness with hope in God. And for the children, joy despite it all – the same joy found in any child… only these children were also shouting “Azungu!” (White!) as we passed amongst them.
What makes a man like Victor stay? Our world needs men like Victor who can stay… but how could I tell him that, when all he wants is a better life for himself and his family. He could sell art in America… or teach… or repair pumps… or probably anything, if given an opportunity. But he is also so valuable to the children at Makata School.
Tuesday, October 21 – visit to 4 communities and two schools in rural Blantyre
A long day. Joe and I teamed up with Joseph (WFP) and Florence (Freshwater) to visit Freshwater projects that are funded by WFP. All in very, very rural Blantyre – back past the airport onto bumpy dirt “roads” that led past stumps of trees, men riding toward Blantyre with bikes loaded down with wood and charcoal, many men, women and children walking…
Opportunities to visit in front of people’s homes… twice offered food – mangoes and “ground nuts”. Met with many people from village water committees; in one village, with a solar-powered well, every person brought out a chair or stool for Joseph and me to sit on. Very humbling… but felt like definitely the right thing to do was to accept their offer.
We saw a wide range of houses and latrines… some very simple, some falling apart, others very well-kept and solid in appearance. Most people seemed proud to talk to us and answer questions – even if they were confused as to why we would want to look into their latrines!
The day seemed long, not because of the overwhelming emotions of yesterday, but because of hard work, little food, hot sun and lots and lots of wind. However, I got to come back to the Kabula Lodge, take a shower (even though the cold water was off for a while), eat and be refreshed, then enter data and type these notes into the computer. The people we visited with today are still out in their homes… after a day of hard work, little food, hot sun and lots of wind – with no shower, a sparse dinner, and minimal refreshment. They have no retreat to come back to… what we saw today is real life for so many… day after day after day…
Wednesday, October 22 – visit to 5 Hygiene Village Project communities
Another long day – with long hikes in hilly terrain, visiting villages that had latrine-related projects from 11/06 to 5/07. The staff that we teamed with today were Joseph (WFP) and Roy, Cecilia and another from HVP… the HVP staff visited these communities daily during the funding period, and much progress was made with composting latrines (SkyLoo above ground, ArborLoo and another in-ground style) – latrines where ash is added after the waste, and when the hole is full, it is covered for 7 months while a second hole is used… or, in the case of the ArborLoo, a tree is planted in the fresh compost, and the dome top is moved to another hole. However, HVP’s initial progress was slowed by the fact that the grant had come during the rainy season, and then the planting season, so some of the holes and structures were destroyed or never completed. We saw a range today, from pristine loos to unused ones… encouraging and discouraging at the same time. But most people we talked to seemed proud of their communities’ progress.
Snapped many photos today… and with each one, the subject was very excited to view themselves on the screen… adults and children alike.
Also had some empty water bottles, and the HVP staff I was with came up with an impromptu “hygiene quiz” to determine how to give them away. He asked “when should you wash your hands”… and only two children came up with unique answers, for which they excitedly received bottles. Bottles which we would otherwise throw away or maybe recycle. But two adult women were listening and shouted out some other applicable answers, and “won” the bottles… they came up clapping and smiling as if they had just received money or an award. For a plastic bottle. What have I discarded in my lifetime that would be treasure to people who have so little???
A sad moment occurred when I was talking with Roy about my family and then asked about his. He stated that he has 6 children… but a daughter died last year. Like the teacher from Monday, this man would seem to fall into the “middle class” of Malawi – yet he is a victim of the same results as the people he works to serve – and so many people throughout Africa. Also drove past at least two large graveyards today. Our driver stated that any large, shady tree in Malawi has at least one grave under it.
As usual, though, children brought joy. At one point, we were driving from one village to the next just as school was out… and we somehow ended up with about 30 kids in the back of the pickup! One was slightly lame, and ran away from our driver as he was trying to help him into the back, too… it turns out, he thought the “Azungus” were trying to steal children, and he wanted no part of getting in the truck! Later we heard that a rumor spread that we had stolen some children… some had apparently hopped off of the truck when it stopped, but not gone straight home… so a few mothers/grandmothers started to believe that it was really true, and went looking for their children. Later, they found our truck, but not us… so they were really scared for a moment! I felt a little bad about that…
The villages were scattered in the hills, but did provide some beautiful pastoral views. It is very peaceful and simple in the villages… much unlike the busy and crowded city just a few (very) bumpy dirt roads and 4 or 5 km away.
Thursday, October 23 – visit to 3 villages in Chickwawa
A frustrating start to a long day… our driver showed up late, took a long time getting diesel, snacks and picking up others… so that we weren’t to Chickwawa (which means “flat lands”) until 11:30 am. We drove and drove and drove some more, on roads that would not be passable for most cars or drivers in the U.S., until we reached villages that were far from everything but each other. Nice people, but lots of animals and poor maintenance of most latrines and handwashing stations – discouraging on the sanitation front.
We did see another American – a Peace Corps worker who grew up in Sacramento, CA! She was very excited to see other Americans, and especially excited to see a Californian. She is staffed in Chickwawa for 2 years, and she seemed to be a bit discouraged, wondering if she will be able to make a difference. I think the initial excitement has worn off, and the reality of a long stay is setting in. But she can make a difference, like we can, by getting to know people, gathering appropriate data, and treating everyone with respect and love. I hope we encouraged her in this today.
One interesting thing we saw was police checkpoints set up to stop the spread of hoof-mouth disease in the cattle in Chickwawa. Leaving the District, we had to get out of our car, walk over some material drenched in chemicals, and then drive the cars tires over the same material. Weird… hope it works.
We’re all beat tonight – going to bed without entering our data from today, with plans to catch up over the weekend and next week. I think we all need the rest after the long drive, hot weather and strong winds of today. The locals say the strong winds mean the rains are coming soon – maybe we will see some while we are here. I know the locals are anxious, as it will allow them to plant their staple crop of maize…
Friday, October 24 – visit to 4 villages in Chickwawa
A better start to the day… although maybe it was just Joe and I lowering our expectations of efficiency, and trying to be more flexible on “Malawi time” and not American…
We stopped in town to pick up some water, snacks and soap, and our driver parked the car a little outside of the lines, and came into the store with us. When we came back out, there was a metal boot on the car tire, and the local traffic police – who are all over the streets of Blantyre – approached our driver with a ticket. We expected the ticket to be for K20 (about 15 cents), which we had seen earlier in the week when another driver parked badly outside of the bank. However, this ticket was for K2,000! We think it was an “Azungu” special… they saw Americans, and saw $$. Horrible. We tried to talk the police down to a lesser amount, but they wouldn’t budge… so, we walked to the ATM and withdrew the K2,000 (about $15) to pay. For our driver, who makes K7,000/month, it would have been over a week’s salary – a ridiculous fine… and something that stinks of corruption.
Down in Chickwawa today, though, was much better than yesterday. 3 of the 4 villages we visited were doing a good job with sanitation. One was desperately in need of further instruction about hand-washing and the importance of using the latrines instead of the bush... the health worker who accompanied us indicated that this particular village has been hard to gain support. I’m not sure why…
At our last stop, we visited with the chief and others that live in a village near an enormous sugar cane plantation… they have two shallow wells that seem to be influenced by the runoff/fertilizers from the plantation… and they asked us to do our best to help them get a deeper well. While we don’t have the power to promise dollars or solutions, we are in a position to really comment on what we’re seeing… I want to believe that it will do good in getting additional funding to the villages in Malawi that are so poor and would truly benefit from the aid.
Saturday, October 25 – Sunday, October 26 – Liwonde National Park
R&R at Liwonde National Park… although not much R&R during the 2-hour car ride on Malawi’s pot-hole filled highways, following cars and trucks (mostly Toyota’s) that wouldn’t come close to passing California’s smog check requirements! To make matters just a bit worse, I had my first bout with traveler’s diarrhea Friday night into Saturday morning… but with some Cipro and Immodium, it didn’t last long. (Interesting that my partner for the village evaluations this week, Joe, and I are the only two that have had the problem so far… we are thinking back to the one village we visited where no one used hand-washing or good sanitation practices. Hmmm…)
Anyway, back to the getaway to Liwonde. We arrived around noon on Saturday at Hippo View Lodge, on the outskirts of the national park, had some lunch, and then paid for a boat tour on the Shire River to see hippos. And we were not disappointed… we came within 50 feet or so of hippos, some in pairs, and others in groups of 6 or so. They were all submerged, but would come up for air, twirl their ears (to get water out?), and stare at us for a while before going back under. Well worth the money to see those guys up close.
After the boat ride, we were able to relax for the rest of the afternoon and evening – much needed after the long days and full emotions of the past week.
On Sunday morning, we woke up early, had a quick breakfast, and headed out to the national park. Once we got to the gate, bargained down the entry fee and got inside the park, we picked up a “guide” who joined us in the car. And carried an M-16. Turns out that the gun has been necessary in the past to protect tourists from elephants…
We drove on dirt roads through the park for what seemed like miles, spotting guinea fowl, cormorants, warthogs, baboons, zebu (sp?), water buffalo, and numerous deer-like animals… but we were all waiting to see a herd of the big guys. Finally, as we neared the Shire, we came upon elephants – so many, I lost count. They are so much more majestic in their natural environment than they have ever seemed to me in a zoo. Beautiful creatures. We then proceeded to another part of the river, and were able to also see crocodiles and more hippos. Rhinos are in the park, but are kept in a separate sanctuary, and are also nocturnal, so we did not see them. And we were told that the zebras were also being kept in a separate sanctuary area for their breeding season. So… we didn’t get to see all of the animals we were hoping for, but it was still worth the journey…
A little more rest tonight, then tomorrow, back to work…
Monday, October 27 – visit to 4 villages and 1 school in Chickwawa
After a weekend of “rest”, it seemed that I/we felt refreshed in returning to our evaluations today. A good breakfast at the Kabula Lodge (we’ve had a different cook since last Wednesday, and he really makes good meals when we eat breakfast and dinner here), some water and snacks picked up at the supermarket, and down the hill again to Chickwawa. (The supermarket we went to this morning, by the way, could have been any small supermarket in the U.S. It had everything we could have wanted, albeit with smaller portions, different brand names, and slightly different flavors… but there were a few familiar items, like Oreos and Chips Ahoy. Boy, did those chocolate chip cookies taste good today!)
In Chickwawa, we had a good day visiting villages. Things seem to flow a bit better every day, as Joe and I feel more comfortable with what we are evaluating, more able to communicate, and more confident in providing instruction – to the villagers and to our in-country co-workers – about how to best practice good sanitation and hygiene. We also used a Water For People-sponsored latrine for the first time today, then washed our hands with a hand-washing station. It worked out well… and the man who let us use his “facilities” seemed very happy that two Americans had visited his latrine!
It looks like we should be able to finish evaluations tomorrow, and work on finishing data entry and starting our evaluation report the next day. Hoping to have one free day in here somewhere to explore the country a little more and wander through some of the open-air markets… we are all feeling more comfortable with the culture, and it would be fun to “go out on our own” a bit before we leave.
Tuesday, October 28 – visit to 3 villages and 1 school in Chickwawa
Our last day in the field… a mixture of relief and sadness, as it is good to have done what we set out to accomplish, but we will miss our daily interactions with the villagers.
Today we were able to present a soccer ball (“football”) to a school, along with a first aid kit and some other supplies. The teachers and students seemed so happy to receive them. Some students kicked the ball around with me, and then took shots on goal with first Joe and then me as goalie. The first shot was a rocket, right in the upper corner of the goalposts that Joe couldn’t even touch… but then, they must have realized that the “Azungu’s” couldn’t play, so they started shooting right at us, almost as if they were letting us stop them. Oh well, it was still fun to see them play with such joy, and share the ball with them for a minute.
We feel pretty worn down after so many days in the field, so it will be nice to have a few days to review the data and consolidate our thoughts. Joe and I were talking tonight about what it would take to do something like this more often – or even permanently. It would, of course, be a big commitment, but after being in this country for just a few weeks, it is obvious that one could relocate here fairly easily; English is spoken, there is good access to banks and shopping, and, most of all, the cities and villages are full of people that are not so different than us – they want clean water, sanitation, enough food and money to get by, health and education for their children, and hope for the future. Whatever form it may take, the 6 of us that are here want to hang on to this vision – to not forget why we came and why it has been so good to be here. I think the only real danger to the vision is to fall back into the relative “comforts” of America, and forget about the “real life” experienced by so much of the rest of the world, and the opportunities we have to help. For those of you reading this, please help me to hold on to this vision… and join us in sharing it.
Wednesday, October 29 – data entry in Blantyre, etc.
This is the first morning of the trip where we haven’t had to get up and head off somewhere… a day to rest a bit… but the sun comes up so early (along with the roosters, dogs and noises of the city), that my body woke up at the same time, anyway. Had breakfast, read a bit, and then started in on entering the rest of the data we’ve been collecting for the past few weeks.
It felt a little strange to not go out to a village – to just sit in our “protected” world of the Kabula Lodge, with the computer. But it was also good to remember that entering the data and compiling a report is the best way to communicate all that we’ve seen and learned from the villagers. It is important to keep our obligation to them – to pass on their needs to those that have the power to allocate resources that can make a difference..
At lunchtime, we asked the driver to take us to an American-style pizza place that we saw in an ad – “Jungle Pepper Pizza”. It tasted pretty good – especially after two weeks without American food (and most of those days without eating any lunch at all!). Near the pizzeria is a large supermarket called Shoprite… so we went in to look around. I was very surprised. The store would not have been out of place along Folsom Boulevard in Rancho Cordova – it basically looked like a Super Wal-Mart, complete with smiley-faced posters, “low prices always” signs, Christmas décor, and cashiers with light-up reindeer antlers. It was good to find out that there are places to find Heinz ketchup and strawberry jam (which we picked up, since we’re all tired of Malawian marmalade on our morning toast)… but kind of sad to see that commercialization – American-style – has made it’s way over here, as well.
After the Shoprite, though, we had a more “traditional” African experience. We went to an outdoor market, where people were peddling handcrafted trinkets and artwork. And as soon as we stepped out of the car, it was a mob scene. Four Azungus were instant targets, and it quickly became apparent that we were not going to be able to browse the market in peace. Each vendor would call for our attention, show his wares and tell us he’d make the best deal. We walked through and looked some items over, but I, for one, was not able to concentrate on much of anything with the next vendor already trying to get my attention and sell me some candlesticks, beads or other item. When we finally made our way back to the car, two college-age people came up and asked about our experience… they stated that they were doing a survey, and wanted to gather information. We were able to briefly provide some feedback on how we would rather enjoy a shopping experience… I don’t know if it will make any difference, but it (the survey) is a good idea, nonetheless.
Anyway, an interesting day on the shopping front. Tomorrow, we’ll see if we can figure out how to hike a mountain without getting solicited to purchase anything along the way…
Thursday, October 30 – trip to Mt. Mulanje
After finishing up one stage of data entry yesterday, the four guys that are part of the team decided to take a trip to Mt. Mulanje today. Mt. Mulanje is about 1½ hours from Blantyre, and – according to our driver – is the second-highest mountain in Africa, after Kilimanjaro. On the drive to the trailhead, we passed field after field of tea… these fields are remnants of the British occupation, and are apparently still owned by a British company. They reminded me of grape vines in the Napa Valley… a sea of green on rolling terrain.
After we found our way to the trailhead, via a series of dirt roads and highways under construction (we could provide some advice to the Malawi Tourism Bureau regarding better access to something as popular as Mt. Mulanje), we got started with the hike. And it was a tough one – very steep, with a non-stop ascent. As we were plodding up, with good hiking shoes, backpacks and plenty of water, we were met by Malawian men coming down. The thing that impressed us most about these men was the fact that they were coming down barefoot – and they were balancing on their heads freshly planed boards that were approximately 12-foot long 2x6’s! Like the trail wasn’t hard enough already… imagine trying to take it with 1-3 boards on your head….
It turns out that there is a lot of deforestation happening toward the top of the mountain. After we arrived at a lower peak, we were able to see where many trees had been cut and some areas burned – a sad sight in an otherwise very beautiful national park. It was still nice, though, to rest at our destination and look out to the valley below, and around at the massive rock of the mountain… kind of reminded me of El Capitan in Yosemite. Beautiful. And our snack of a shared Clif Bar, pop-tarts and Chips Ahoy cookies had never tasted so good. There was also another memorable event that happened up on top of the mountain… but it’s a little too hard to try to scribe – remind me to tell you in person when I return to the States.
We were very sore after the hike and a bumpy car ride back to Blantyre. Good to be back at the Kabula Lodge. Funny how the Kabula has started to feel so “safe” now – and kind of homey – after our first impressions questioned the area because of the high walls and barbed wire. It’s been a good retreat for us, as well as many other international travelers and NGO workers.
After tonight, only one more full day before we head home. I’m definitely ready to be home with my family… but I think I will miss a lot about this place, this country, too…
Friday, October 31 – wrap-up and debriefing in Blantyre
Our last full day here… wow, it’s amazing how two weeks can feel so full and so fast at the same time.
We slept in a little bit this morning, and then traveled as a team downtown for souvenir shopping. Went to a supermarket for some items, then back to the open-air market we had perused a few days before. As we were walking to the first market, a young boy – maybe 12 years old – approached our group and began asking for money and food. As we have been instructed, I tried to politely say “no” and ignore him – knowing that if I gave him money, I would be mobbed by other beggars. But this boy was persistent, and there was something about him that made me wonder if he was serious about his need for food. So… in the supermarket, I picked up a box of biscuits for him, and handed them to him, as he was waiting outside the store. He accepted them, and stopped following… but immediately, an even younger boy came alongside with his hand outstretched for money. As hard as it was, I had to ignore him.
We went to the outside market, and the usual salesmanship ensued, with the artists vying for our attention, promising to make the “good deal”. I spent some time engaged in bartering over a picture and then a carving, and felt pretty good about getting their initial offers down into a range that I was comfortable with. Bartering is actually kind of fun – especially for the buyer, who has the power to walk away from the deal at any time… I think I’ll try it a bit more often when I return to the States.
When the group got back to our car, while I was still at the market, I guess the same boy I had given biscuits to was back, asking for more money. So much for my theory… but so hard to tell what is “legitimate” begging and what is a scam. There is so much need here, it is never wrong to help with a “cup of cold water”… but how to address it on a larger scale?
Anyway, with that experience behind us, we went on to lunch, and then an afternoon back at the Kabula Lodge to finish data compilation and rest…
Tonight, we met up with the Malawi WFP staff for a farewell dinner/debriefing. A good meeting, with opportunity to thank each other for all that we have learned. But it was kind of bittersweet, too… knowing that it may be a long time before I return to Africa, even though it is taking a strong hold of my heart.
For now, though, I am most ready to see my wife and children… so, tomorrow I will say goodbye to Malawi – for now – thankful to God for this opportunity, and looking ahead to whatever plans He has for a return someday, with my family.
Thursday, October 16 – Friday, October 17 – Travel from Sacramento, CA USA to Johannesburg, South Africa
We made it. The total travel time was 26.5 hours from takeoff in Sac to touchdown in Johannesburg. Whew! A rough landing in Dakar, then a ripping apart – I mean, inspection – of the seats by airport officials, and insecticide spraying throughout the cabin by the attendant… a malfunction in cargo delayed us there for 2.5 hours. Then, bad weather around Johannesburg made us circle for an hour or so, with lightning strikes in the distance and much turbulence. It was very, very good to be on solid ground. Then... got to the hotel, and the power was out! It just came back on a bit ago, and I am writing from an internet cafe in the hotel (Hotel Grand). I am rooming with Richard Murphy (from GSWC), and sat next to him on the plane, as well. The other 4 team members seem very nice. The guy I think I'll be teaming with on the evaluation trips in Malawi is named Joe, and he is a big Phillies fan, from Philadelpia. (We'll have to talk some American baseball, of course.) Right now, South African sports are on the TV in the Internet cafe - rugby, soccer, cricket.
Saturday, October 18 – Travel from Johannesburg to Blantyre, Malawi
We are here, at the Kabula Lodge. Today’s flight was much better than yesterdays… no problems. I did get shammed out of about $7 at the Johannesburg airport by a guy who pretended to be an airline employee, led us to a line and then asked for a tip for the whole group. Turns out it was the “first class” line, which we were not… so we had to go back to the longer line we had been in, anyway. And the guy was nowhere to be found. Oh, well… live and learn. I hope the money goes for a good purpose. I sat next to a woman from Malawi on this flight, and she was very knowledgeable about both Malawi and US politics. Interesting conversation. The weather here is HOT… even the Malawi natives that picked us up were noting the temperature. Saw a lot of people walking and riding bikes on the way from the airport to the hotel. Many small “businesses” along the roadside. Many coffin builders – seeing that made me sad. Also, a lot of trash, like in dry streambeds and drainages. But also women pumping water from some communal wells… which I’m sure we’ll see more of!
Afternoon rest, then dinner at Greens – a nice restaurant. The drivers, Ben and Frank, waited outside for the duration of our meal. The restaurant property had a wall and a gate; after dinner, I asked Frank the reason for all of the “compounds” (around hotels, restaurants, etc.) He stated that there are “professional thieves” that would otherwise harass the clients, steal from the owner, etc. Another reminder of the poverty in this country… some people feel that stealing is the only way to survive. I then asked about the police and judicial structure; Frank stated that there is a police department and there are courts, etc. and punishment for crime – but we have yet to see any sign of a law enforcement network. That would require infrastructure that Malawi may not have… and may not be able to have until the basic necessities – like clean water – are in place? (Clean water leads to more productive time, more education, better health, etc…. things that are necessary in order to build solid infrastructure!)
Reflecting on this made my mind wander back to what we had seen on the drive from the Blantyre airport to the Kabula Lodge. Many, many people walking and riding bicycles along the main street… many others sitting in the shade… many others selling wares in the open or from small shacks alongside the road – with names like “God is Good Grocery”, “Telephone Cooperative” (selling shared cell phone time), or “Coffin Showroom”. A mass of humanity with seemingly little purpose but to survive… all the while surrounded by the stigma of death. Some signs promoting HIV/AIDS awareness, others – like the Coffin makers – an all to real reminder of death’s presence here. Can water and sanitation be foundational for bringing the change that is needed in Malawi???
Sunday, October 19 – Tour and lunch with Marei’s friend Eddie (and his wife, Anna) Kaluwa
We all slept in today… we needed it! I awoke at 8:40am, then showered (low water pressure, but scalding water) and headed down for breakfast. I thought I was late, but it turns out that I was only the third person from our group to eat… and the hostess was gracious and prepared me a meal of two fried eggs, two pieces of toast, and a sausage… although she probably thought I was a lazy American!
After breakfast and a relaxing morning, Eddie came to pick us up. Marei had connected with him on her trip last year, as they are both members of the Lions Club International. He was very nice, welcoming and gracious. He had been to church already (we later found out that his wife had preached, on Paul and Silas freeing the slave girl from the demon possession that made her masters’ money) – he seems to be like an elder in his church.
He took us by the farm of Christopher, a gentle man who had a lush vegetable and flower garden and tree nursery near a small creek. He dams the creek in 5 locations, and there were still pools of water for him to pump from. He received his first pump from Eddie, who purchased it (petrol, 5kV?) in Johannesburg – but that pump got stolen. He was able to save enough to buy another pump, which keeps his business going even during the dry season… while others are only preparing their fields, waiting for the rains to come. Christopher was growing maize, strawberries, papayas, peanuts, and many other things – while we were there, he had helpers harvesting fruits and vegetables for a customer that was going to arrive at 2pm. He irrigates twice a week in the dry season, and once a week in the wet season, with the pump and a series of PVC pipes and hoses that he keeps on the tin roof of his house when not in use…
Next, we went by Eddie’s church, and saw the building the congregation built from bricks they made and fired themselves (to make the bricks, they build a brick “hut”, fill it with wet bricks, light a fire until it smokes, and then seal it for a week). The church has city water and power; Eddie’s house is nearby, and he was the first in the area to connect to power… after the transformer was placed, it then became available for others in the area to contact the power company to connect. The church is also building a small kitchen with $400 received from a group in Pittsburg – and they still have some of that money left!
We walked from the church to some fields, where one of the “elders” – Tom – has a plot of land with maize, tomatoes, peanuts, etc.? He was very proud of his plot of earth – it was a beautiful garden, all irrigated from shallow ditches leading back to a shallow well. A woman was drawing a large bucketful while we watched (and then carried all 50+ lbs of it on her head up the hill!). Amazing to have such a beautiful garden all irrigated basically by hand.
Then we went to Eddie’s house, met his wife Anna, and had a very enjoyable meal and a relaxing afternoon. Eddie runs a cargo business, and is obviously well-off. He has a large home, at least one servant, night-time guards, chickens (his daughter’s side-business), pigeons, his own well and water tank (for when the city water – run by the National Water Board – is unreliable), a garden, a Land Rover, satellite TV (his granddaughters were watching a Madonna video on VH1, and later we watched CNN coverage of U.S. politics!), etc. He buys tomatoes from Tom, though! He seems to be able to relate well to the rich and the poor… for the poor, he provides incentives, like “if they make the bricks, I will help bring in someone to make this shallow well a borehole well”. He seemed very knowledgeable on social and cultural issues, both Malawi’s and outside. He has been once to the U.S. – to Washington, D.C. and Pittsburg.
Eddie indicated that malaria is a bigger problem in Malawi than HIV/AIDS, because with AIDS, you can live for a while, but with malaria, you might die tomorrow. He also encouraged tree planting to go along with water and sanitation projects, as Malawi has been deforested for wood for fuel… maybe the WFP “Arbor Loo” is helping to address this. Anna talked further about malaria, stating that education was very important… mosquito nets are almost free, but some people use them to fence chickens, etc. So, medication like what Bono is discussing would need to be distributed down to the village level, and come with much culturally-sensitive education.
At the end of our visits, Eddie took us by his cargo company, developed from the ground up 10 years ago, after he was fired by an Indian cargo company…
Overall, a nice day, a good visit with Eddie and Anna, and a great introduction to some sights of Malawi.
Monday, October 20 – WFP training intro, visit to Makata School
Met up with Kate (WFP) and partner staff in the morning, then went to a school site in the afternoon to observe, interview and practice our evaluation skills as a group. The school has almost 6,000 students, but only 60 teachers! (And only 24 ventilated pit latrines for boys, 10 for girls, and 6 for staff… one urinal for boys and one for girls… three hand-washing stations… one Afridev pump.) They serve porridge each morning, “when it’s ready”, which interrupts morning lessons… but the teachers are grateful for the food for the students. One teacher confirmed my suspicions that it is hard to maintain a classroom of 100 students, much less provide individual instruction. 800 of the students are orphans.
Met a teacher, Victor Fundi, who worked on the hygiene project and was also trained to repair the pump. He has three children, but lost a fourth last year… for what reason, I could not ask. He has never been out of Malawi, but desperately wants to get to the U.S. He is also an artist, and brought some of his paintings to show us – beautiful artwork. At the time of our departure, he offered me one, and even when I stated that I couldn’t pay him, he insisted. I humbly accepted one of his paintings, of zebras… so generous… an amazing gift.
We spent some time in the village outside of the school, interviewing users of the well. We followed a teen-aged girl carrying water to the home of an elderly woman, who invited us into her home. She answered all of the questions with careful thought. On her walls were two decorations… one was a picture of an open Bible, and I could make out the word “Jesus” spelled “Yesu”. The other was in English, simply stating “God will save us from our problems”.
Today was emotionally full. I think that the entire team was humbled by what we saw today… poverty with hope, education against the odds, attempts – through water, hygiene and sanitation – to help people to survive… and maybe, with education, to succeed. A tension of hopelessness with hope in God. And for the children, joy despite it all – the same joy found in any child… only these children were also shouting “Azungu!” (White!) as we passed amongst them.
What makes a man like Victor stay? Our world needs men like Victor who can stay… but how could I tell him that, when all he wants is a better life for himself and his family. He could sell art in America… or teach… or repair pumps… or probably anything, if given an opportunity. But he is also so valuable to the children at Makata School.
Tuesday, October 21 – visit to 4 communities and two schools in rural Blantyre
A long day. Joe and I teamed up with Joseph (WFP) and Florence (Freshwater) to visit Freshwater projects that are funded by WFP. All in very, very rural Blantyre – back past the airport onto bumpy dirt “roads” that led past stumps of trees, men riding toward Blantyre with bikes loaded down with wood and charcoal, many men, women and children walking…
Opportunities to visit in front of people’s homes… twice offered food – mangoes and “ground nuts”. Met with many people from village water committees; in one village, with a solar-powered well, every person brought out a chair or stool for Joseph and me to sit on. Very humbling… but felt like definitely the right thing to do was to accept their offer.
We saw a wide range of houses and latrines… some very simple, some falling apart, others very well-kept and solid in appearance. Most people seemed proud to talk to us and answer questions – even if they were confused as to why we would want to look into their latrines!
The day seemed long, not because of the overwhelming emotions of yesterday, but because of hard work, little food, hot sun and lots and lots of wind. However, I got to come back to the Kabula Lodge, take a shower (even though the cold water was off for a while), eat and be refreshed, then enter data and type these notes into the computer. The people we visited with today are still out in their homes… after a day of hard work, little food, hot sun and lots of wind – with no shower, a sparse dinner, and minimal refreshment. They have no retreat to come back to… what we saw today is real life for so many… day after day after day…
Wednesday, October 22 – visit to 5 Hygiene Village Project communities
Another long day – with long hikes in hilly terrain, visiting villages that had latrine-related projects from 11/06 to 5/07. The staff that we teamed with today were Joseph (WFP) and Roy, Cecilia and another from HVP… the HVP staff visited these communities daily during the funding period, and much progress was made with composting latrines (SkyLoo above ground, ArborLoo and another in-ground style) – latrines where ash is added after the waste, and when the hole is full, it is covered for 7 months while a second hole is used… or, in the case of the ArborLoo, a tree is planted in the fresh compost, and the dome top is moved to another hole. However, HVP’s initial progress was slowed by the fact that the grant had come during the rainy season, and then the planting season, so some of the holes and structures were destroyed or never completed. We saw a range today, from pristine loos to unused ones… encouraging and discouraging at the same time. But most people we talked to seemed proud of their communities’ progress.
Snapped many photos today… and with each one, the subject was very excited to view themselves on the screen… adults and children alike.
Also had some empty water bottles, and the HVP staff I was with came up with an impromptu “hygiene quiz” to determine how to give them away. He asked “when should you wash your hands”… and only two children came up with unique answers, for which they excitedly received bottles. Bottles which we would otherwise throw away or maybe recycle. But two adult women were listening and shouted out some other applicable answers, and “won” the bottles… they came up clapping and smiling as if they had just received money or an award. For a plastic bottle. What have I discarded in my lifetime that would be treasure to people who have so little???
A sad moment occurred when I was talking with Roy about my family and then asked about his. He stated that he has 6 children… but a daughter died last year. Like the teacher from Monday, this man would seem to fall into the “middle class” of Malawi – yet he is a victim of the same results as the people he works to serve – and so many people throughout Africa. Also drove past at least two large graveyards today. Our driver stated that any large, shady tree in Malawi has at least one grave under it.
As usual, though, children brought joy. At one point, we were driving from one village to the next just as school was out… and we somehow ended up with about 30 kids in the back of the pickup! One was slightly lame, and ran away from our driver as he was trying to help him into the back, too… it turns out, he thought the “Azungus” were trying to steal children, and he wanted no part of getting in the truck! Later we heard that a rumor spread that we had stolen some children… some had apparently hopped off of the truck when it stopped, but not gone straight home… so a few mothers/grandmothers started to believe that it was really true, and went looking for their children. Later, they found our truck, but not us… so they were really scared for a moment! I felt a little bad about that…
The villages were scattered in the hills, but did provide some beautiful pastoral views. It is very peaceful and simple in the villages… much unlike the busy and crowded city just a few (very) bumpy dirt roads and 4 or 5 km away.
Thursday, October 23 – visit to 3 villages in Chickwawa
A frustrating start to a long day… our driver showed up late, took a long time getting diesel, snacks and picking up others… so that we weren’t to Chickwawa (which means “flat lands”) until 11:30 am. We drove and drove and drove some more, on roads that would not be passable for most cars or drivers in the U.S., until we reached villages that were far from everything but each other. Nice people, but lots of animals and poor maintenance of most latrines and handwashing stations – discouraging on the sanitation front.
We did see another American – a Peace Corps worker who grew up in Sacramento, CA! She was very excited to see other Americans, and especially excited to see a Californian. She is staffed in Chickwawa for 2 years, and she seemed to be a bit discouraged, wondering if she will be able to make a difference. I think the initial excitement has worn off, and the reality of a long stay is setting in. But she can make a difference, like we can, by getting to know people, gathering appropriate data, and treating everyone with respect and love. I hope we encouraged her in this today.
One interesting thing we saw was police checkpoints set up to stop the spread of hoof-mouth disease in the cattle in Chickwawa. Leaving the District, we had to get out of our car, walk over some material drenched in chemicals, and then drive the cars tires over the same material. Weird… hope it works.
We’re all beat tonight – going to bed without entering our data from today, with plans to catch up over the weekend and next week. I think we all need the rest after the long drive, hot weather and strong winds of today. The locals say the strong winds mean the rains are coming soon – maybe we will see some while we are here. I know the locals are anxious, as it will allow them to plant their staple crop of maize…
Friday, October 24 – visit to 4 villages in Chickwawa
A better start to the day… although maybe it was just Joe and I lowering our expectations of efficiency, and trying to be more flexible on “Malawi time” and not American…
We stopped in town to pick up some water, snacks and soap, and our driver parked the car a little outside of the lines, and came into the store with us. When we came back out, there was a metal boot on the car tire, and the local traffic police – who are all over the streets of Blantyre – approached our driver with a ticket. We expected the ticket to be for K20 (about 15 cents), which we had seen earlier in the week when another driver parked badly outside of the bank. However, this ticket was for K2,000! We think it was an “Azungu” special… they saw Americans, and saw $$. Horrible. We tried to talk the police down to a lesser amount, but they wouldn’t budge… so, we walked to the ATM and withdrew the K2,000 (about $15) to pay. For our driver, who makes K7,000/month, it would have been over a week’s salary – a ridiculous fine… and something that stinks of corruption.
Down in Chickwawa today, though, was much better than yesterday. 3 of the 4 villages we visited were doing a good job with sanitation. One was desperately in need of further instruction about hand-washing and the importance of using the latrines instead of the bush... the health worker who accompanied us indicated that this particular village has been hard to gain support. I’m not sure why…
At our last stop, we visited with the chief and others that live in a village near an enormous sugar cane plantation… they have two shallow wells that seem to be influenced by the runoff/fertilizers from the plantation… and they asked us to do our best to help them get a deeper well. While we don’t have the power to promise dollars or solutions, we are in a position to really comment on what we’re seeing… I want to believe that it will do good in getting additional funding to the villages in Malawi that are so poor and would truly benefit from the aid.
Saturday, October 25 – Sunday, October 26 – Liwonde National Park
R&R at Liwonde National Park… although not much R&R during the 2-hour car ride on Malawi’s pot-hole filled highways, following cars and trucks (mostly Toyota’s) that wouldn’t come close to passing California’s smog check requirements! To make matters just a bit worse, I had my first bout with traveler’s diarrhea Friday night into Saturday morning… but with some Cipro and Immodium, it didn’t last long. (Interesting that my partner for the village evaluations this week, Joe, and I are the only two that have had the problem so far… we are thinking back to the one village we visited where no one used hand-washing or good sanitation practices. Hmmm…)
Anyway, back to the getaway to Liwonde. We arrived around noon on Saturday at Hippo View Lodge, on the outskirts of the national park, had some lunch, and then paid for a boat tour on the Shire River to see hippos. And we were not disappointed… we came within 50 feet or so of hippos, some in pairs, and others in groups of 6 or so. They were all submerged, but would come up for air, twirl their ears (to get water out?), and stare at us for a while before going back under. Well worth the money to see those guys up close.
After the boat ride, we were able to relax for the rest of the afternoon and evening – much needed after the long days and full emotions of the past week.
On Sunday morning, we woke up early, had a quick breakfast, and headed out to the national park. Once we got to the gate, bargained down the entry fee and got inside the park, we picked up a “guide” who joined us in the car. And carried an M-16. Turns out that the gun has been necessary in the past to protect tourists from elephants…
We drove on dirt roads through the park for what seemed like miles, spotting guinea fowl, cormorants, warthogs, baboons, zebu (sp?), water buffalo, and numerous deer-like animals… but we were all waiting to see a herd of the big guys. Finally, as we neared the Shire, we came upon elephants – so many, I lost count. They are so much more majestic in their natural environment than they have ever seemed to me in a zoo. Beautiful creatures. We then proceeded to another part of the river, and were able to also see crocodiles and more hippos. Rhinos are in the park, but are kept in a separate sanctuary, and are also nocturnal, so we did not see them. And we were told that the zebras were also being kept in a separate sanctuary area for their breeding season. So… we didn’t get to see all of the animals we were hoping for, but it was still worth the journey…
A little more rest tonight, then tomorrow, back to work…
Monday, October 27 – visit to 4 villages and 1 school in Chickwawa
After a weekend of “rest”, it seemed that I/we felt refreshed in returning to our evaluations today. A good breakfast at the Kabula Lodge (we’ve had a different cook since last Wednesday, and he really makes good meals when we eat breakfast and dinner here), some water and snacks picked up at the supermarket, and down the hill again to Chickwawa. (The supermarket we went to this morning, by the way, could have been any small supermarket in the U.S. It had everything we could have wanted, albeit with smaller portions, different brand names, and slightly different flavors… but there were a few familiar items, like Oreos and Chips Ahoy. Boy, did those chocolate chip cookies taste good today!)
In Chickwawa, we had a good day visiting villages. Things seem to flow a bit better every day, as Joe and I feel more comfortable with what we are evaluating, more able to communicate, and more confident in providing instruction – to the villagers and to our in-country co-workers – about how to best practice good sanitation and hygiene. We also used a Water For People-sponsored latrine for the first time today, then washed our hands with a hand-washing station. It worked out well… and the man who let us use his “facilities” seemed very happy that two Americans had visited his latrine!
It looks like we should be able to finish evaluations tomorrow, and work on finishing data entry and starting our evaluation report the next day. Hoping to have one free day in here somewhere to explore the country a little more and wander through some of the open-air markets… we are all feeling more comfortable with the culture, and it would be fun to “go out on our own” a bit before we leave.
Tuesday, October 28 – visit to 3 villages and 1 school in Chickwawa
Our last day in the field… a mixture of relief and sadness, as it is good to have done what we set out to accomplish, but we will miss our daily interactions with the villagers.
Today we were able to present a soccer ball (“football”) to a school, along with a first aid kit and some other supplies. The teachers and students seemed so happy to receive them. Some students kicked the ball around with me, and then took shots on goal with first Joe and then me as goalie. The first shot was a rocket, right in the upper corner of the goalposts that Joe couldn’t even touch… but then, they must have realized that the “Azungu’s” couldn’t play, so they started shooting right at us, almost as if they were letting us stop them. Oh well, it was still fun to see them play with such joy, and share the ball with them for a minute.
We feel pretty worn down after so many days in the field, so it will be nice to have a few days to review the data and consolidate our thoughts. Joe and I were talking tonight about what it would take to do something like this more often – or even permanently. It would, of course, be a big commitment, but after being in this country for just a few weeks, it is obvious that one could relocate here fairly easily; English is spoken, there is good access to banks and shopping, and, most of all, the cities and villages are full of people that are not so different than us – they want clean water, sanitation, enough food and money to get by, health and education for their children, and hope for the future. Whatever form it may take, the 6 of us that are here want to hang on to this vision – to not forget why we came and why it has been so good to be here. I think the only real danger to the vision is to fall back into the relative “comforts” of America, and forget about the “real life” experienced by so much of the rest of the world, and the opportunities we have to help. For those of you reading this, please help me to hold on to this vision… and join us in sharing it.
Wednesday, October 29 – data entry in Blantyre, etc.
This is the first morning of the trip where we haven’t had to get up and head off somewhere… a day to rest a bit… but the sun comes up so early (along with the roosters, dogs and noises of the city), that my body woke up at the same time, anyway. Had breakfast, read a bit, and then started in on entering the rest of the data we’ve been collecting for the past few weeks.
It felt a little strange to not go out to a village – to just sit in our “protected” world of the Kabula Lodge, with the computer. But it was also good to remember that entering the data and compiling a report is the best way to communicate all that we’ve seen and learned from the villagers. It is important to keep our obligation to them – to pass on their needs to those that have the power to allocate resources that can make a difference..
At lunchtime, we asked the driver to take us to an American-style pizza place that we saw in an ad – “Jungle Pepper Pizza”. It tasted pretty good – especially after two weeks without American food (and most of those days without eating any lunch at all!). Near the pizzeria is a large supermarket called Shoprite… so we went in to look around. I was very surprised. The store would not have been out of place along Folsom Boulevard in Rancho Cordova – it basically looked like a Super Wal-Mart, complete with smiley-faced posters, “low prices always” signs, Christmas décor, and cashiers with light-up reindeer antlers. It was good to find out that there are places to find Heinz ketchup and strawberry jam (which we picked up, since we’re all tired of Malawian marmalade on our morning toast)… but kind of sad to see that commercialization – American-style – has made it’s way over here, as well.
After the Shoprite, though, we had a more “traditional” African experience. We went to an outdoor market, where people were peddling handcrafted trinkets and artwork. And as soon as we stepped out of the car, it was a mob scene. Four Azungus were instant targets, and it quickly became apparent that we were not going to be able to browse the market in peace. Each vendor would call for our attention, show his wares and tell us he’d make the best deal. We walked through and looked some items over, but I, for one, was not able to concentrate on much of anything with the next vendor already trying to get my attention and sell me some candlesticks, beads or other item. When we finally made our way back to the car, two college-age people came up and asked about our experience… they stated that they were doing a survey, and wanted to gather information. We were able to briefly provide some feedback on how we would rather enjoy a shopping experience… I don’t know if it will make any difference, but it (the survey) is a good idea, nonetheless.
Anyway, an interesting day on the shopping front. Tomorrow, we’ll see if we can figure out how to hike a mountain without getting solicited to purchase anything along the way…
Thursday, October 30 – trip to Mt. Mulanje
After finishing up one stage of data entry yesterday, the four guys that are part of the team decided to take a trip to Mt. Mulanje today. Mt. Mulanje is about 1½ hours from Blantyre, and – according to our driver – is the second-highest mountain in Africa, after Kilimanjaro. On the drive to the trailhead, we passed field after field of tea… these fields are remnants of the British occupation, and are apparently still owned by a British company. They reminded me of grape vines in the Napa Valley… a sea of green on rolling terrain.
After we found our way to the trailhead, via a series of dirt roads and highways under construction (we could provide some advice to the Malawi Tourism Bureau regarding better access to something as popular as Mt. Mulanje), we got started with the hike. And it was a tough one – very steep, with a non-stop ascent. As we were plodding up, with good hiking shoes, backpacks and plenty of water, we were met by Malawian men coming down. The thing that impressed us most about these men was the fact that they were coming down barefoot – and they were balancing on their heads freshly planed boards that were approximately 12-foot long 2x6’s! Like the trail wasn’t hard enough already… imagine trying to take it with 1-3 boards on your head….
It turns out that there is a lot of deforestation happening toward the top of the mountain. After we arrived at a lower peak, we were able to see where many trees had been cut and some areas burned – a sad sight in an otherwise very beautiful national park. It was still nice, though, to rest at our destination and look out to the valley below, and around at the massive rock of the mountain… kind of reminded me of El Capitan in Yosemite. Beautiful. And our snack of a shared Clif Bar, pop-tarts and Chips Ahoy cookies had never tasted so good. There was also another memorable event that happened up on top of the mountain… but it’s a little too hard to try to scribe – remind me to tell you in person when I return to the States.
We were very sore after the hike and a bumpy car ride back to Blantyre. Good to be back at the Kabula Lodge. Funny how the Kabula has started to feel so “safe” now – and kind of homey – after our first impressions questioned the area because of the high walls and barbed wire. It’s been a good retreat for us, as well as many other international travelers and NGO workers.
After tonight, only one more full day before we head home. I’m definitely ready to be home with my family… but I think I will miss a lot about this place, this country, too…
Friday, October 31 – wrap-up and debriefing in Blantyre
Our last full day here… wow, it’s amazing how two weeks can feel so full and so fast at the same time.
We slept in a little bit this morning, and then traveled as a team downtown for souvenir shopping. Went to a supermarket for some items, then back to the open-air market we had perused a few days before. As we were walking to the first market, a young boy – maybe 12 years old – approached our group and began asking for money and food. As we have been instructed, I tried to politely say “no” and ignore him – knowing that if I gave him money, I would be mobbed by other beggars. But this boy was persistent, and there was something about him that made me wonder if he was serious about his need for food. So… in the supermarket, I picked up a box of biscuits for him, and handed them to him, as he was waiting outside the store. He accepted them, and stopped following… but immediately, an even younger boy came alongside with his hand outstretched for money. As hard as it was, I had to ignore him.
We went to the outside market, and the usual salesmanship ensued, with the artists vying for our attention, promising to make the “good deal”. I spent some time engaged in bartering over a picture and then a carving, and felt pretty good about getting their initial offers down into a range that I was comfortable with. Bartering is actually kind of fun – especially for the buyer, who has the power to walk away from the deal at any time… I think I’ll try it a bit more often when I return to the States.
When the group got back to our car, while I was still at the market, I guess the same boy I had given biscuits to was back, asking for more money. So much for my theory… but so hard to tell what is “legitimate” begging and what is a scam. There is so much need here, it is never wrong to help with a “cup of cold water”… but how to address it on a larger scale?
Anyway, with that experience behind us, we went on to lunch, and then an afternoon back at the Kabula Lodge to finish data compilation and rest…
Tonight, we met up with the Malawi WFP staff for a farewell dinner/debriefing. A good meeting, with opportunity to thank each other for all that we have learned. But it was kind of bittersweet, too… knowing that it may be a long time before I return to Africa, even though it is taking a strong hold of my heart.
For now, though, I am most ready to see my wife and children… so, tomorrow I will say goodbye to Malawi – for now – thankful to God for this opportunity, and looking ahead to whatever plans He has for a return someday, with my family.
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